All about vermicomposting

 Vermicomposting 


History:


Vermicomposting (from the Latin word “vermes” meaning “worms”) is the process of using worms to convert organic matter to compost, and can be used on a small or large scale. Cleopatra VII (69-30 BCE) recognized the importance of earthworms in supporting agriculture, and made removing an earthworm from Egypt punishable by death. Aristotle called earthworms “the intestines of the soil”, and Charles Darwin doubted that any animal played more of an “important a part in the history of the world”. Mary Appelhof popularized the idea of vermicomposting for homes and gardens in 1972 when she published a small brochure called  “Basement Worm Bins Produce Potting Soil and Reduce Garbage”. She went on to write a larger brochure a few years later, as well as a book on vermicomposting in 1982.  


Benefits/ How it works:


 

Image source: https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2016/08/12/489748719/the-power-of-worm-poop 


Inside a vermicompost bin, worms eat microorganisms and organic material. These get ground up by the worm’s gizzard and broken down by enzymes and microbes in the worm’s gut. The castings that come out has lots of nutrients and good bacteria, plant growth hormones, and humid acids that assist with plant growth. 


Vermicast nutrient content varies depending on what you feed your earthworms, but feeding earthworms does cause nitrogen, phosphorous, and sulphur in soil (enriches soil). It also improves soil aeration and improves water holding capacity. For plants, it enhances their germination and growth, and improves root growth and structure. There are also general economic and environmental benefits.  


How to build a home vermicomposter: 



  1. Get an opaque plastic storage tub with a lid. Use a nail or drill to make a couple of holes around the top of the sides and on the bottom of the bin. This is for air circulation and drainage. Do not put holes in the lid (they let in too much light and would encourage too much evaporation).
  2. To prepare the bedding you can use newspaper or paper shredded or torn into strips. You should moisten this by spritzing it with water. Fill the bin 1/3 full with bedding.
  3. Add food scraps such as vegetables peels, coffee grounds, or dry leaves. Add another layer of bedding on top, then add some soil, and another layer of food scraps and bedding. The bin should be 3/4 full. You can also add a layer of stones or gravel at the bottom, along with wire mesh.
  4. Add worms! Did you know there are over 3000 species of earthworms around the world? Red wigglers are a great choice for vermicomposters. There are some companies that sell them online, or you can check out web sites like Kijiji. 1 lb minimum is best. Put them in the bin under the top layer of bedding. 
  5. Keep your bin between 59 F and 77 F. You can put the bin in your garage, basement, under your sink, etc. Do not let it freeze.
  6. Feed your worms a cup or two of food scraps every few days. Dig a small hole with a trowel, toss the scraps in, and cover it back up. Put scraps in a different spot each time, and don’t overfeed them.


For more information, and a how-to build your own vermicompost tutorial, check out the link below. There are other great resources online for a larger-scale too:


https://foodshare.net/custom/uploads/2019/04/Build-a-Worm-Bin_TD-FEF-2019.pdf



Collecting humus / harvesting: 


Vermicompost is ready for harvest when it contains few or no scraps of uneaten food or bedding. The compost will be dark, crumbly, and earthy smelling. There are several ways of harvesting vermicompost: ”dump and hand sort", "let the worms do the sorting", "alternate containers”, "divide and dump”, and the pyramid method. Earthworms can be separated from their vermicasts by placing fresh feed at the opposite end of the bin to attract them, using a sieve/ grate, mild heat, or drying the vermicasts with a fan to divert worms to moister material.


Troubleshooting:


Here are some common problems and how to manage them.


  1. Worms are dying
  • worms die because they aren’t getting enough food, so food should be put into the bedding
  • food may be too dry, so make sure you’ve got some moisture
  • food may be too wet, so add more bedding
  • worms may be too hot, so bin should be put in a shadier or cooler location


2. Bad smells

  • this comes from not having enough air circulation. Add dry bedding over and under the worms, and turn the compost.
  • make sure you are not adding meat or greasy foods
  • you may need to remove some of the bin contents if it is too deep or wet 


3. Moisture

  • your moisture range should be between 50-90%
  • reduce excess water if necessary by adding food that has lower moisture contents or adding more dry bedding 


4. Pests

  • pests such as rodents or flies may be attracted to the bin if it is outside
  • to avoid this, do not add meat or dairy products to the bin 
  • if you get fruit flies, make sure you cover the food scraps with bedding 


Worms escaping

  • especially outside, the worms may try to leave after a rainstorm when humidity is high
  • to limit this, make sure the bin is solid and in good working order
  • you can also put a light over the bin when first introducing worms 
  • if your worms are trying to escape this means the conditions in your bin are not ideal for them, so keep an eye on what you’re doing and the upkeep of your bin 


References:



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